Northern Ireland Confidential

los manos

BARCELONA -- Second only to the Alhambra on my must-see list for this trip is La Palau de la Musica Catalana, an architectural marvel. I was elated to find that a concert would take place during my visit. I was less elated on concert day when it appeared that it would be an organ concert.**

But it turned out that it was actually a concert by I Musici, a masterful chamber group, which featured an organist for just two pieces. The concert was incredible, one of the musical highlights of my life. The venue, the performance, the selections, everything about the experience was overwhelming.

The 11-piece group doesn't have a conductor but they play with astounding precision. I enjoy watching musicians interact on stage, and they had some kind of code that told them when to start, what the tempo is, and all the dynamics. Just the way the principal violinist inhaled, or drew his bow, was some kind of secret signal. This violinst played with his whole body, even his knees.

gutted

"What are you looking forward to about moving back to the States?" a friend asked me recently.

Aside from the obvious [family, friends, NPR], there is one clear answer: ice. I will savour my first big, frosty, iced drink.

End of list.

"What will you miss about living here?" a new acquaintance asked me this morning.

I have willed myself not to think about it. But it would have been rude not to answer.

"Just about everything," I said.

Then I thought about how he had greeted me as he came in the room: "Boutcha!"

Oh, how I will miss that accent and the language that separates us -- and that I maybe have sussed out just a wee bit. Aye, most of all, I'll miss these words.

ounce of prevention

The credit card company called. They're concerned. Just wanted to check. Did I authorize authorise an online purchase to the ... Paloo duh Musing ... um ... Payload dur Mafia ... er ...

Are you asking about the Palau de la Musica?

Yes. Is that authorised?

You better believe I authorised it. Because I'm going to see a concert at this place in Barcelona.

now that's fresh

For a person who likes food as much as I do, I really should learn to cook. That's on the list for Hotlanta. This past weekend I went to St. George's Market, as I love to do, and walked past gorgeous tables of seafood -- scallops nearly as big as your fist, stringy squid, fresh hake, all so beautiful.

That's when I really wish I knew how to cook.

Until then, I'll leave it to the pros, and one chef that's come onto my list recently is a Northern Ireland competitor on a TV show called "Great British Menu." He has a restaurant near Killinchy -- well, Balloo, actually -- hey, near Strangford Lough, close enough! I am shocked and saddened to report that the other Norn Iron competitor lives and works in London. She is a ringer and is categorized categorised as from NI because she was born on the Antrim Coast. When she opens her mouth she sounds like the Queen. Veddy posh. Her name is Claire. In Northern Ireland, that's pronounced "Clur," not "Clahr."

into the mystic

In the last 8 days I have ...

• Stood on the cooled columns of a volcanic eruption

• Looked at the curling finger of the Ards Peninsula from the top of Scrabo Hill

• Walked through caves nearly a mile underground

• Touched a figure carved thousands of years ago in a quiet waterfront cemetery

• Huddled in a tomb built before the birth of Christ, awaiting the rays of the winter solstice sun

• Heard the ancient beating heart of the sea

• Felt the sun spread over the ruins of an island monastery

• Watched two lambs inch their way into the world

What is left, I ask you?

Bus tour to Van Morrison's birthplace this afternoon, of course!

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Just a wee note to assure you that I am still here. My parents and nephew are visiting, which is wonderful for about 328 reasons. The only downside is that we are so busy doing fun things that I don't have time to write about them (yet). The only other downside is that showing them Northern Ireland reminds me how much I love it and that I really, really do not want to leave.

the 'r' word

No point in beating around the bush. I got the call: time to move back to the States.

The original timeline for this assignment had me in Northern Ireland until the end of next year, but perhaps you've heard about the economy, a little something called a "recession."

That's not the "r" word I have dreaded. What I've feared is that call -- "repatriation."

But you know, it's hard to be bitter when you're still not living that most dreaded of all "r" words -- "redundant."

i still haven't washed my hand

I met Paul Merton tonight.

Isn't that something? I think I may have been the only patron in Belfast who can say that, since I pretty much ran him down in the back corridor of the theatre as he tried to make a quick getaway. I talked to him for a nanosecond and gushed, wild-eyed. He was very nice and said, "I hope you enjoyed it tonight." But he was probably thinking, "We have got to start getting better security at these things."

This event was "Silent Clowns," at which Paul introduced some silent films clips and explained some of the silent era's history and importance. Neil Brand, whom I'd just heard on Radio 4 this afternoon, provided piano accompaniment for the films.

He was amazing. Paul Merton mentioned that he hears Neil play many nights, and he often brings something new to his accompaniment that changes the flavour of the film.

Paul may not be speaking to Neil because the musician helped me get access to him. I feel a bit ashamed that I didn't gush all over Neil because honestly, he did the heavy lifting for the show. He played for all the clips and in the second half provided full soundtrack for the Buster Keaton full-length classic "Steamboat Bill Jr." Amazing.

All I can say by way of thanks is, check out Neil Brand's excellent film-music commentary on "The Film Programme." And buy Paul Merton's book, "Silent Comedy." If you ever get a chance to meet him, tell him that crazy lady from Belfast says hi.

culinary adventure

 

Two great tastes that taste great together?

We'll never know as I gave this offering at the White Hart Inn a miss in favour of a more traditional serving of haggis, complete with neeps and tatties.

Yeah, I love Edinburgh and spent another delightful weekend there. Two days of sun, can you believe it? So much to tell, but big work stuff tomorrow. It will have to wait for a few more days ...

all the old dudes

If I'm going to announce when minor '80s bands reunite, I might as well announce when significant '70s bands do.

Of particular interest to CHM.

I don't know who any famous BBC Ulster personalities are, which is unfortunate because one apparently was seated next to me during last night's haircut.*

The owner of the salon was sharing a very exciting bit of news. He told this celeb that he has tickets to see a band at London's Hammersmith Apollo in October. This group has not performed together in 35 years. "Guess who it is?" the owner asked.